Mexico CIty: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler

This is a great book. Specifically, for the walking tours that Jim has mapped out for one. I had a free Sunday and followed his tour of the colonia Maria de la Ribera. And it was wonderful. The only glitch was the starting point from the Republica, because there are now palm trees in several locations. But once I got my bearings, the walk was informative and enjoyable. I did eat at the Russian restaurant though cause I was craving a salad and soup, and I enjoyed it. And I had a drink at the Paris bar and finished the trip with a walk through the huge Buenavista mall, just as he described. I recommend this book highly. Jim has a very good Mexico City blog as well. I've done every one of the neighborhood walking tours. Which are excellent. Which is why I always recommend this book to anyone. I travel with a digital Kindle version but also own multiple copies of the hard copy to give to friends. Here are some of my recommendations that I give when people ask about Mexico City.2. If you have more than a passing interest in the Aztecs, I recommend reading Gary Jennings’s book “Aztec” before you go. The prose in the first 100 pages is pretty bad but then it takes off and if you’ve read it, when you walk through the archeology museums, it will have given you a profound perspective on what you are seeing. Also, for history, the very readable and enjoyable “Fire and Blood” by T. R. Fehrenback. 3. I’ve come across some books that will make your vacation terrific. I would recommend downloading them rather than lugging copies. The walking tours in Opinionated will introduce you to the width and breadth of CDMX and this book is HIGHLY recommended. These must have books and digital versions can be found so that you don’t have to lug them around. Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler - Jim Johnston Top Ten Mexico City - DK Eyewitness Travel The Monocle Travel Guide Series - Mexico City This is Mexico City - Abby Clawson Low Tacopedia Mexico City’s Best Tacos - Nicholas Gilman 4. For buying folk art and crafts, in addition to touring Museo de Artes Populares on Revillagedo at Independencia (it has high quality crafts but EXPENSIVE), take an Uber to one of the currently open FONART locations. There are other FONARTS around town. About 4, currently. The biggest arts and crafts market will be La Ciudadela. Also, the Coyoacan market, as well as having terrific food options, has a lot of Day of the Dead folk art of good quality. And there’s a folk art museum in Coyoacan (Museo de las Culturas Populares) that is a must visit, especially if they are featuring an event where they’ve invited folk artists to sell their stuff. For market experiences in CDMX, I recommend the Coyoacan market, the Mercado Jamaica, and the Mercado San Juan Gourmet. If you are a serious market person, definitely Merced, which is huge 5. There is an artesanias market at Florencia/Londres/Liverpool. The focus is on silver, as you will see. But. In the back are some eateries (comedores) that I love. A comida corrida will set you back about 5 US dollars and the food is very good. 6. Get the card which is good for both the Metro and the Metrobus. I recommend that, for orientation purposes, you ride the Metrobus Lines for Reforma or Insurgentes, all the way to its end and then return on it. A very good way to discover CDMX. 7. METRO: Download the official CDMX Metro app, for getting around. I wish I could show you a photo of what the app looks like here. 8. A link to Guillaume Guevara’s extensive reviews and articles on dining and drink in CDMX: Search for The Infatuations Guillaume Guevara on Google. 9.Culinary Highpoint. Go to the 32MX Fogones Coyoacan website or better, their Facebook page as they feature amazing fixed price meals on the weekend, inviting regional specialty cooks from the 32 states of the Republic. Cocineras tradicionales. 10.Next, if you are with T Mobile, you are in luck. T Mobile functions just like in the US and is free to use in Mexico. 11.Next, transportation. Taxis and Uber are really cheap. But traffic is horrific so sometimes it is best to take the underground metro or one of the direct route bus lane Metrobuses to your destinations. Metro uses one use tickets. Metrobuses use a card that you scan each time you use. There is a superb app (or two) to download before your trip to Mexico City that I recommend for getting around. I will send you a screen shot of them. The one I use most is the official Metro/Metrobus app. And then I fall back on my iPhone map and my google map. 12a.I want to travel with small notes as making change is a challenge. I go to my Bank of America and purchase my pesos in advance, and specify “small notes” at the online site or app. My pesos arrive 3 days later at the bank for pick up and the only cost is for the postage. Chase does the same but their rate isn’t as good. 12b.If you are walking distance to Insurgentes, that is where you pick up the Metrobus going south. You will take it past the Zona Rosa and get off around the Alvaro Obregon stop. That will put you in the walking area of Colonia Roma where great restaurants, outdoor dining, Mercado Roma, etc. are. 14.PRUNES. The meat heavy, masa heavy diet is constipating. I had the aha moment a while back and religiously add fiber via organic prunes in the morning and evening (2 each time) to fix this problem. And, eating at vegetarian restaurants often for veggies. 15.Food Safety: I'd just like to throw out one more thing, or two. Before you eat anywhere, street, restaurant, etc. wash your hands thoroughly. This will give you a baseline that, in case you do get ill, that you didn't bring the contamination with you. Also, if you are going through a serving line where you use the same serving utensils as others, wash your hands before you sit down to eat. The good news is that, in my experience, places are very hygienic these days. You'll see the ladies in the fondas scrubbing down their dining areas. Because with so much competition, the worst thing that could happen is for word to get out that a particular fonda made someone sick. The real issue, and this is just my opinion, is that there are too many places vying for the same business. And so, food doesn't get sold, gets refrigerated, and brought out the next day. You'll see this with the chiles rellenos for example. Now, it has been decades since I have gotten sick in Mexico. I make sure that the street food is HOT and not tepid. And I fanatically wash my hands. 16.From a Destination Expert: “CRAFTS MARKETS - Trip Advisor Mexico Destination Expert Longford has prepared the following list: ➡ Mercado de Artesanías de La Ciudadela La Ciudadela originally opened during the 1968 Olympics to showcase arts and crafts items from all over the country. There are still very few regions and specialties not represented among its crowded, crammed, and colorful aisles. Once here, you can walk east to the Mercado San Juan Gourmet and to the CDMX Asiatown, stopping to visit the Blue Demon Jr. lucha libre shop. ➡ Mercado de Artesanías y Curiosidades San Juan This market specializes in artisan gifts and, as they put it in the name, curiosities. Extensively renovated beginning in 2019, it’s a whole new experience. Having languished, in part for its relative nearness to the much bigger La Ciudadela Market, the San Juan version is back. Vendors have had to be more creative. The results is a more focused, and often higher quality of artisan goods. The market has also gone through a major remodeling to update the interior and exterior. ➡ Mercado de Artesanías de Coyoacán ➡ Fondo Nacional para el Fomento de las Artesanías – FONART The Fondo Nacional para el Fomento de las Artesanías or National Fund for the Development of Arts and Crafts (best known as FONART) is a dependence of the Secretariat of Social Development (SEDESOL). It was established in 1974 to promote and protect traditional Mexican handcrafts. FONART operates four (4) retail stores selling high-quality craftwork from throughout ➡ Tienda - (Museo de Arte Popular) “For anyone who enjoys Mexican handicrafts, this place is must. It’s a small museum, but worth visiting. The gift shop is full of high quality souvenirs.: textiles, pottery, carvings, the works.” – TA guest review. ➡ Mercado Insurgentes de Artesanías y Platería “Also referred to as either Mercado (Zona Rosa) or Mercado Londres, this is the neighborhood's largest crafts market, featuring artistry from across Mexico, including jewelry, ceramics, and clothing.”

Jim Johnston's book dispelled any rumors people might believe that this city is dirty, unsafe and dilapidated. We bought this book instead of its more famous cousins, Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Let's Go, for the same reason we'd prefer to have a bite in a beloved local mom n pop place rather than go to Wendy's - or talk to a friend rather than watch TV. It's like the title says, this is a guide for the discerning traveler. It's light on the obvious things, the major tourist attractions, the things you can find online after a second long search. Instead it focuses on what life here is like, starting with what the experience of arriving at the airport is like, how to safely and easily get a cab, and then takes you on a tour of this amazing, colorful, musical, generous place from the point of view of an expat - a writer who moved here from New York City. It describes the best neighborhoods to see, the best rooftop bars to stop in on, the best places to eat, but also the culture and what to expect. I read Jim Johnston's book cover to cover and that's something that people never really do with travel books. They'll just look for the parts they need in the index like the glossary of common phrases or the exchange rate - but I couldn't put this book down, it was an easy read, a fast read, and without being excitable or sentimental. You trust the writer instantly, whose only agenda is to share his love of the city with the reader. This unique travel guide takes you on no less than 16 walking tours through this enormous, glorious city, something that you'd never be able to do otherwise unless you had a close friend who lived here and who had a week to show you around the city like only a local can. My wife and I did literally all 16 walk-arounds that Jim Johnston's book recommended and absolutely fell in love with Mexico City, or as it is nicknamed, D.F. (el Distrito Federal). We had no idea that it would be so leafy, with so many tree lined streets and beautiful, bucolic parks, that it would be much less hectic than New York City, much cleaner and safer than San Francisco, much friendlier than Paris (but with the same outdoor cafe and intellectual culture) and with much greater infrastructure than London (and these are all places I adore and have lived). Without this book, we'd have never known for example that Uber in Mexico City is both inexpensive, safe, and the car shows up in literally one or two minutes every time - no matter where you are! We want to move here now and this book even gives you tips about doing that. But I won't spoil the fun. Visit Mexico City, a little known gem (sure it's famous but it's not #1 on most people's lists of places to see) and that's quickly become my favorite big city in the world and, when you do, make sure to get a copy of Jim Johnston's book. I'd have been overwhelmed without it and probably not seen anything other than the obvious bits. Now I feel like a local - and plan on becoming one!

Planning a trip to D.F. and wanted a guide book for my husband as it will be is first time there. I have been many times over summers. The inclusion of the walking tours is what made me choose the book. Having read it over the last few days I am glad to have bought it as it describes things to do in a way that helps you choose if you want to do it or not. It is not bogged down with information on what time something opens or addresses, which I had already obtained from the internet, making it an easy to carry guide that gives you the essential information if you are an independent traveler. We have already chosen 3 walking tours to take over our 10 day trip. For those needing step by step instructions on what to do and where to go and how to get there this book is not for you. If you are more independent and want to explore a little and try new things, this is your book. I think this book would be improved by the following: a) add how to get to Teotihuacan using public transport b) Skip the where to stay section c) Increase the where to eat section d) Include some more information on local customs so as not stick out as a tourist, including dressing appropriately.

Spoiler alert: This is the best $13.90 you can hope to spend on a guidebook. My advice: Don't leave for Mexico City without it! I came across this title while preparing for my recent trip to Mexico City. I wanted to update the guide books I already owned. This one stood out with both its unconventional approach and the excellent reviews it has earned. The book's philosophy is simple: The author leaves conventional, straightforward matters (like what is contained in which museum) to mainstream guidebooks (or the internet). Instead, he (a long-time resident of the city) shares his notes, insights and opinions with you. The book is densely packed with the kind of practical information which makes or breaks a trip: Safety, hotels, taxis, food (especially street food) and nightlife. The centerpiece is a collection of carefully crafted walking tours. I followed the itineraries using google maps rather than the maps in the books which worked out OK for me. I had time for four only and I can attest that without this guide I would have missed out on sights and experiences (and foods) which really turned my visit into an unforgettable one. For example: I would not have eaten in the Mercado de Antojitos in Coyoacan and tasted the best deep-fried quesadillas I've ever eaten (Tour # 15) . I would also never found the Plaza de Los Arcangeles, the serenity of which needs to be experienced to be believed (Tour #16). And so it goes...at the end there is even a list of classic Mexican films and novels to prepare you for the experience (or for you to remember the place fondly afterwards). All in all, it was like being accompanied by an experienced, sophisticated friend who wants to show you the city he loves. That's great value for $13.90, don't you think?

A fantastic, up-to-date guide for Mexico City. I visited in Feb 2016 and it was spot on. I was hosted there by a veteran expat, and we did many of the book's walks together. Though she'd be in the city for years, she discovered great spots she'd never encountered, and pretty much all of the advice was good. The author is pretty clear that this is likely not your only source for learning about Mexico City (you need a standard travel guide or similar resource [Wikipedia actually worked well for most things] for detailed historical information and the nitty-gritty of major tourist attractions ), but it is nevertheless essential. There is no way I would have had such a great experience without this book. Advice: - read the book before you go - read through the walks, make note of the restaurants/taco stands/bars he mentions, as these will likely not come up elsewhere in the book (there is a section on "food," which is a good general overview, but it doesn't separately list all his favorite places to eat - another reason to read before you go is that the walks are described in a narrative, not with maps - so if you are a visual person, and if you just want to make sure you don't miss a turn, you want to have review the route ahead of time... you also don't want your head buried in a book while you should be looking around - the guide is up to date enough to mention (and praise) Uber - but I really have to emphasize how great Uber is in cdmx - for the cost of a bus ticket in most US metro areas, you can take a super comfortable, 30 minute ride across town (and charge your phone!) - do not use a taxi (the hassle of figuring out the honest ones, and dealing with paying them etc etc is completely not worth it), do not attempt the metro at busy times, buses are absolutely not worth it.

This book is a treasure. Not only does it offer a unique perspective on Mexico City but avoids all the redundant information found in other guide books. In other words, the book lives up to it's name! Even though I have not been able to follow the interesting suggestions for walking tours due to some mobility issues, the book has been essential reading for my trips to the D.F Just reading the book provides a sense of place, it's culture- high and low, architecture grand and humble, and food both local and inexpensive and world class. An "Opinionated Guide" has personality, wit and for someone like me who wants to get the flavor of life in this great metropolis without wasting extra steps, it is a pleasure to read for soaking in the ambience as well as for the discerning information. It is clear that Jim Johnston has an eye for the particular and an artist's ability to paint with words. (His website indicates that he has been a designer and painter). A most enjoyable book to read and use. Highly recommended.

I would have given this book 5 stars because the content is great, except for the fact that it mostly consists of walking tours that, for an inexplicable reason, ONLY include turn-by-turn directions, with no maps showing the routes (as you typically see with walking tours). This makes it very hard to follow, especially if you are trying to do the tours in the opposite direction, see if you have gotten off track, or simply find yourself in an area and want to see if there is a walking tour nearby. I cannot understand why the author would omit this information. It’s otherwise a useful guide.

If you've never been to Mexico City, this book is the perfect introduction. If you've been multiple times, it will show you hidden gems that you never knew about. Billed as an "idiosyncratic guide," the primary focus is on food, shopping, architecture and contemporary art. The book's core is sixteen walks through various neighborhoods. It also gives basic information on food, transportation, accommodations and shopping, flavored with short essays describing Mexican movies, music and nightlife. The author is at his best when describing the truly unique aspects of Mexican culture, such as lucha libre, Dia de Muertos, and La Virgen de Guadalupe. The book reflects the author's interests and doesn't attempt or pretend to be comprehensive (for instance, it's a little heavy on art galleries and a little light on historic churches), but anyone seeking a concise, helpful travel guide will not be disappointed.

I bought this book for the walking guides and found them frustratingly inadequate. A good walking guide should have a map right next to each walk, with the route clearly marked. The distance each walk covers should be specified . This book has neither of these. There are some maps at the end, but walking routes are not marked on them, and their scale is small. Furthermore the level of historical detail is minimal. A little bit more work by the author would have produced a far better book..suggest he studies a good London walking guide and model the next edition in that. This book feels as if it was hastily put together without much thought.

This is a very good guide on the city of Mexico which I'll be visiting during Dia de Muertos this year (2023). I'm at page 150 or so and I keep underlining stuff. Tons of information on various subjects. I already have, I don't know how many places (restaurants, street food stands, parks, barrios, neighborhoods, public markets, etc.), I checked marked that I want to see. I'm reading this book like a novel it is that enjoyable. The author also gives 16 walking tours. Usually, I am not a big fan of following someone else's favorite sites, but in this case, the walking tours are short and you get a lot of information on what you will see. Not just the building's history, but also the neighborhood, the area, and its residents. It's like having the author walking with you. The way he writes and explains what you will experience makes you feel you are already there. So, if you are going to Mexico City, get it, you will not regret it.

Perfect for a first time traveller

Good stuff to know—concise, well-arranged, conveniently small in size.

We appreciated the detailed description of the mentioned places and buildings. Obviously, the American author is living there. The text is very culture oriented. It suits us well.